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	<title>Bric Rods &#187; header clearance</title>
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	<description>Real Automobile Work With a Twist</description>
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		<title>Hydraulic Clutch Conversion</title>
		<link>http://bricrods.com/2009/12/hydraulic-clutch-conversion/</link>
		<comments>http://bricrods.com/2009/12/hydraulic-clutch-conversion/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 12 Dec 2009 17:44:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bric</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Conversions]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Drivetrain]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[clutch]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[conversion]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[header clearance]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[headers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hydraulic]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hydraulic clutch conversion]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mach 1]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[master cylinder]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[slave cylinder]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bricrods.com/?p=244</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This particular post deals with installing a hydraulic clutch on an old Z-bar (equalizer bar) car.  The old style mechanical linkage, though reliable, has one inherent problem &#8211; it takes up too much room in the engine compartment.  This is explained a bit in this post which tells about the design of Mustangs in accordance [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This particular post deals with installing a hydraulic clutch on an old Z-bar (equalizer bar) car.  The old style mechanical linkage, though reliable, has one inherent problem &#8211; it takes up too much room in the engine compartment.  This is explained a bit in <a title="this post" href="http://bricrods.com/2009/12/a-bit-on-rack-and-pinions/" target="_self">this post</a> which tells about the design of Mustangs in accordance with their particular engine displacement.  To summarize however, this 1970 Mach 1 needs more room for headers with better flow, and to this effect a rack and pinion was installed, and then a hydraulic clutch was intsalled.  There are a few ways one can go about this, which include putting in race-bred throwout bearings (slave cylinders), installing a later model Ford slave cylinder from the likes of a &#8216;94 pickup, or by taking the route we took here, which involved the use of (I know sacrilege) GM parts.</p>
<p>First allow the comparison of pros and cons among the differing systems.  To go with a race bred bearing is pricey, with kits costing close to $500.  The bearing itself is close to 200 for a cheap one.  Also, it involves specific master cylinder applications and is mostly difficult for parts procurement short of ordering them and waiting for their arrival.</p>
<p>In reference to the Ford stock parts, it involves the use of a plastic mounting surface for the slave cylinder, and would involve the replacement of the input shaft bearing on the trans.  This could prove detrimental to the overall reliability of the transmission, and was not an option of choice as a result.</p>
<p>The third option, though frowned upon by purists, is one with sound reasoning.  The GM system used on &#8216;88 vintage full size trucks involved the use of an external slave cylinder, and a common master cylinder.  What this means is that with a simple bracket, fabricated and bolted to the bellhousing, and a slight extension of the clutch fork, one can install this system on any vehicle.  A couple bubble flare fittings and two flare fittings along with some brake line with a built in flex point allows the connection between slave and master cylinders, and a simple bleeding of the line produces a dramatic reduction in pedal pressure, as well as increased clearance in the engine compartment for the headers to be routed.  Thus, the primary objective is achieved, and for a grand total of roughly $120.</p>
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		<title>A bit on Rack and Pinions</title>
		<link>http://bricrods.com/2009/12/a-bit-on-rack-and-pinions/</link>
		<comments>http://bricrods.com/2009/12/a-bit-on-rack-and-pinions/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 12 Dec 2009 17:18:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bric</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Conversions]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Steering]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[header clearance]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Mustang]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rack and pinion]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rack and pinion conversion]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bricrods.com/?p=241</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[With the onset of winter in Illinois, it is time to tackle some long-running modifications to one of the constants in the shop, the old 1970 Mach 1.  First allow me to explain a few inherent problems with the Mach.  The biggest problem (and biggest asset interestingly) is the big 385 series 429 in the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>With the onset of winter in Illinois, it is time to tackle some long-running modifications to one of the constants in the shop, the old 1970 Mach 1.  First allow me to explain a few inherent problems with the Mach.  The biggest problem (and biggest asset interestingly) is the big 385 series 429 in the engine compartment.  For those of you unfamiliar with the Mustang chassis, they were produced specific to the engine installed, i.e. if it was manufactured for a 302, the engine compartment was sized accordingly, if for a 428, or other big block, the shock towers were modified to accept the larger width.  In the case of the only Mustangs to get the 429, the Boss 429, the whole front end was modified by an outside contractor to fit the monstrous engine.</p>
<p>Back to the point though, is the fact that this Mach was originally a 351 car, and so the shock towers were cut down at some point to accommodate the big block.  Unfortunately, this was done some time ago and was not done specifically for the 385 series engine, which causes problems procuring headers.  It is to this end that a rack and pinion was desired, to allow for more room in the engine compartment to design headers with better flow.</p>
<p>First off was the removal of the old steering components, including the gearbox, the center link, and all the tie rods.  Next on the agenda was the fabrication of brackets to install the rack and pinion itself, making sure that it was low enough to clear the oil pan, an issue with this larger engine.  Also of note is the retention of the rear steering, rather than a full on conversion to front steering components.  once the brackets were fabricated out of steel, with solid aluminum bushings for the rack to eliminate any movement, the measurements had  to be taken for the overall length of the rack.  This turned out to be a bit long, and short of ordering a custom (and more expensive) rack, we simply machined the threads farther up the rod ends and cut off the ends to shorten it up a bit, roughly 1.5 inches.  Once this was done, the daunting task of assembling a linkage to the steering column was tackled.  This involved lengthening the stock shaft by about 9 inches, cutting off the end of the steering column that protrudes into the engine bay for added angular clearance, and assembling the knuckles.  All told, this is fairly simple, just a matter of measuring the distances and drilling a few retention holes in the DD bar.  Of note is the fact that we used a short pinion rack to allow for the most clearance.</p>
<p>A summary of parts is simply this &#8211; rack and pinion, two knuckles, a length of DD rod &#8211; 3/4 inch, and a couple Mustang II outer tie rod ends.  That&#8217;s really all it takes.  Of course, this still needs to be road tested, and a bearing may need to be installed at the base of the steering column to maintain alignment, but that remains to be seen.  Currently there appears to be very little slop in the system and so it will be left as is for now.  Parts total was just upward of $500.</p>
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