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	<title>Bric Rods &#187; headers</title>
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	<description>Real Automobile Work With a Twist</description>
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		<title>Hydraulic Clutch Conversion</title>
		<link>http://bricrods.com/2009/12/hydraulic-clutch-conversion/</link>
		<comments>http://bricrods.com/2009/12/hydraulic-clutch-conversion/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 12 Dec 2009 17:44:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>bric</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Conversions]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Drivetrain]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[clutch]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[conversion]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[header clearance]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[headers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hydraulic]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hydraulic clutch conversion]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mach 1]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[master cylinder]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[slave cylinder]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bricrods.com/?p=244</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This particular post deals with installing a hydraulic clutch on an old Z-bar (equalizer bar) car.  The old style mechanical linkage, though reliable, has one inherent problem &#8211; it takes up too much room in the engine compartment.  This is explained a bit in this post which tells about the design of Mustangs in accordance [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This particular post deals with installing a hydraulic clutch on an old Z-bar (equalizer bar) car.  The old style mechanical linkage, though reliable, has one inherent problem &#8211; it takes up too much room in the engine compartment.  This is explained a bit in <a title="this post" href="http://bricrods.com/2009/12/a-bit-on-rack-and-pinions/" target="_self">this post</a> which tells about the design of Mustangs in accordance with their particular engine displacement.  To summarize however, this 1970 Mach 1 needs more room for headers with better flow, and to this effect a rack and pinion was installed, and then a hydraulic clutch was intsalled.  There are a few ways one can go about this, which include putting in race-bred throwout bearings (slave cylinders), installing a later model Ford slave cylinder from the likes of a &#8216;94 pickup, or by taking the route we took here, which involved the use of (I know sacrilege) GM parts.</p>
<p>First allow the comparison of pros and cons among the differing systems.  To go with a race bred bearing is pricey, with kits costing close to $500.  The bearing itself is close to 200 for a cheap one.  Also, it involves specific master cylinder applications and is mostly difficult for parts procurement short of ordering them and waiting for their arrival.</p>
<p>In reference to the Ford stock parts, it involves the use of a plastic mounting surface for the slave cylinder, and would involve the replacement of the input shaft bearing on the trans.  This could prove detrimental to the overall reliability of the transmission, and was not an option of choice as a result.</p>
<p>The third option, though frowned upon by purists, is one with sound reasoning.  The GM system used on &#8216;88 vintage full size trucks involved the use of an external slave cylinder, and a common master cylinder.  What this means is that with a simple bracket, fabricated and bolted to the bellhousing, and a slight extension of the clutch fork, one can install this system on any vehicle.  A couple bubble flare fittings and two flare fittings along with some brake line with a built in flex point allows the connection between slave and master cylinders, and a simple bleeding of the line produces a dramatic reduction in pedal pressure, as well as increased clearance in the engine compartment for the headers to be routed.  Thus, the primary objective is achieved, and for a grand total of roughly $120.</p>
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